This new restaurant, opened by the gentlemen behind the successful pop-ups Repéré and Foyer, is a highly sympathetic expression of a very creative kitchen where vegetables take center stage. The name already invites contemplation: choux is French for cabbage – traditionally the vegetable with the lowest status – but choux are also cream puffs, which represent refined, higher pastry. Building on this, it also means “sweethearts” or “darling” (as in mon chou), and Choux combines the earthly and the elevated with a charming appeal.
It is located in a striking, bright red building at the quirky edge of the De Ruyterkade, just under the bridge near Amsterdam Central Station. Guests can choose from three (€33), four (€41), or seven courses (€55). The young owner serves only wines made with as few artificial processes as possible; there is also a delightful option with half-glasses starting at (€21). The predominantly unpolished, light style of these so-called vins naturels pairs beautifully with the food – here, it gives green vegetables an edgy twist, there is freshness to balance richness – and it’s exciting throughout.
Text: Hiske Verspille, from Het Parool.
